
Last Sunday while visiting San Francisco, Skip and I visited the
Church of Saint John Coltrane. It's not a church that worships John Coltrane (as I had hoped) but rather an African Orthodox Christian Church that uses Coltrane's music as a tool of worship and teaching. The service was 3 hours long, and about 2.5 hours of that was pure music. The church had a lead singer/ rabble rouser and live band (drums, keys, bass, two saxophones, clarinet) and Coltrane songs were adapted into raucous, joyful hymns interspersed with long meditative instrumental solos. Audience members were encouraged to sing along, bring and play their own instruments, and bang on tambourines.
The music was breathtaking and the musicianship was superb. The keyboard player effortlessly held down supporting chords, transposing when the singer would change keys unexpectedly, and played an amazing solo in Love Supreme -- all with his eyes closed.
About half of the people attending seemed like regulars- they greeted each other, clapped, danced, and sang with little inhibition. The other half of the people were like us: curious, jazz-loving, and slightly shy passersby.
I found the service to be intoxicating and pleasantly overwhelming. I hadn't been to church in many years, and consider myself an agnostic still recovering from Catholic school. As I sat in the comfortable chairs in this church, lost in the saxophone solo, every so often a woman in the back row would loudly mutter "oh yeah!" and "praise the lord!" I found myself flashing back to Catholic services I attended as a child. Catholic Mass couldn't be more different: the pews were hard, the sermons austere and often ominous, and the congregation held themselves to strict, ritualistic discipline: blank faces, clasped hands, stand, kneel, recite at the right time. Even singing in Catholic mass was disciplined and solemn. As I child I always gazed enviously into
St. Paul's AME Zion Church I passed as we walked to mass. Inside St. Paul's everyone was singing, dancing, clapping, in what seemed like natural and happy rejoicing.
I feel as if I stepped into my childlike ideal of St. Paul's when I attended this service. Even though I'm not Christian, and don't believe in the scriptural passages quoted in the sermon, I couldn't help but be inspired by the energy of the place, the joy of the musicians, and of course the beautiful music of John Coltrane.